It's back to traditional grey and grisly weather outside so what better way to spend the rainy days than by starting to prep for AW12/13. Here's a brief overview of what to expect from next season. Time to embrace your waistline.
AW12/13 relies on the construction and fine details of clothing to create impact. The feeling of opulence on designer catwalks is classy and reserved as we move away from a period that craved fun, flamboyancy and flaunting apparel.
Manipulation of the silhouette is the key to next season with meticulous focus on the waistline. In decade that has dominated by androgyny, elements of male and female autonomy are creeping back, sometimes contrasting and sometimes complementing.
Peplums are the fundamental feature for frill-seekers this AW12/13. The flap of material at the base of a jacket, top of a waistband or mid-point of a dress not only draws attention to the waistline but also accentuates the feminine hip curves. A similar tactic, used by CSM graduate Phoebe English, is a bunched or pleated waistline secured with some sort of rope belt. This flattering style creates texture which blurs any midriff definition and has a slimming effect whilst still highlighting the area.
Waist belts at Dior and McQueen both exaggerate and create a focal point Worn over outwear, they can draw a combination together and stop any figure being swamped by the season’s shapeless coats and capes.
Although it’s all about the midway point, what is happening above and below is just as interesting. Waist down, full, A-line skirts were seen on the runways of Dior and have made a permanent re-appearance. Wide, flared bottoms on trouser and skirts show exaggerated form whilst, yet again, emphasising the middle focal point. Gareth Pugh brought the flare into the coats of his space age collection.
Waist up, there is yet more play on shape with over the top shoulder and sleeves. Stella McCartney teamed broad shoulders with waist belts to contrast masculine and feminine. Wide and sharp or rounded and shapely, it could be time to dust off those shoulder pads again.
Seasonal style sways towards a more demure and covered up stance. Necklines are high and reserved, structured and statuesque. From long collars to sweeping cowl necks or simply straight, revealing less is more.
(Ellie Saab - vogue.com - Alexander McQueen)
The colour palette is rich and typically autumnal with dark brooding purples, reds and browns through to deep teals, blues and greens at the colder end of the spectrum. These regal colours, in particular purple, are prompted in part by royal events such as the Diamond Jubilee and the patriotism felt from the Olympics. Similarly, the wedding of William and Kate last year saw even greater impact on our industry. Christopher Kane’s runway was engulfed by purple, right down to the catwalk, whilst Jonathan Saunders’ captured the key colours in a holographic print.
There were hints of monochrome within several collections including Mugler, D&G and CSM’s Craig Green. The white and black resonates ideas of moving from a dark period of troubled recession and war into a hopefully lighter future.
(Lanvin - vogue.com)
Luxury materials such as leather, sequins, fur and tulle and those with metallic finishes are, instead of engrossing the whole outfit, now accents. Added in panelling or sections to augment affluence to classic yet basic pieces.
Leather was a key accent to Dior’s collection although it steers away from the fetishist feel of yester season. Leather belts and accessories would suffice in incorporating the luxury feel. Similarly with fur, an outer-garment or winter accessory, a la Alberta Ferreti, is an indulgent finish.
Traditional autumnal knitwear is head to toe at Mulberry who also turned chunky knit scarves tucked into a waist belt to create an interesting way to wear the traditional accessory.
(Christian Dior - vogue.com)
DETAIL, PATTERN & PRINT
Brocade has been a leading trend in SS12 and transfers into AW12/13. The raised finish, usually created with silver or gold thread, looks like luxurious tapestry and adds a twinkle in a subtle, less garish way.
Jewel encrusting is a further trend but, like leather, it’s toning down from the attention seeking, loud bling to a more subtle sparkle or oversized collection of juicy jewels. Eye aching gems featuring in the last few years have been linked to the economic crisis and the desperation to imitate wealth. The Edwardian shoes at Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton’s iridescent and encrusted items were nearly trumped by Chanel’s gem covered eyebrows.
(Louis Vuitton - vogue.com)
SARA DARLING @disorderfashion
“oooh....reckon i'll be going for checks, lace and feathers! And some over the elbow leather gloves”
SAFFRON HUNT @saffers
“Mix contemporary patterns with neutral classics”
TIM BITICI @timBitici
“Umm..Peplum, Leather, Bold floral prints, Militant yet feminine, Futuristic, Metallics, Tailored suiting, lots of fur + slouchy”
OLIVER GLASS @OLIVER_GLASS
“Discover the world. Kaleidoscope. Baroque style. Victorian. Romance + sex. Long hair. Black is taking vacations