It's back to traditional grey and grisly weather outside so what better way to spend the rainy days than by starting to prep for AW12/13. Here's a brief overview of what to expect from next season. Time to embrace your waistline.
AW12/13 relies on the construction and fine details of
clothing to create impact. The feeling of opulence on designer catwalks is
classy and reserved as we move away from a period that craved fun, flamboyancy
and flaunting apparel.
SHAPE&STYLE
Manipulation of the silhouette is the key to next season with
meticulous focus on the waistline. In decade that has dominated by androgyny,
elements of male and female autonomy are creeping back, sometimes contrasting
and sometimes complementing.
Peplums are the fundamental feature for frill-seekers this
AW12/13. The flap of material at the base of a jacket, top of a waistband or
mid-point of a dress not only draws attention to the waistline but also
accentuates the feminine hip curves. A similar tactic, used by CSM graduate
Phoebe English, is a bunched or pleated waistline secured with some sort of
rope belt. This flattering style creates texture which blurs any midriff
definition and has a slimming effect whilst still highlighting the area.
Waist belts at Dior and McQueen both exaggerate and create a
focal point Worn over outwear, they can draw a combination together and stop
any figure being swamped by the season’s shapeless coats and capes.
Although it’s all about the midway point, what is happening
above and below is just as interesting. Waist down, full, A-line skirts were
seen on the runways of Dior and have made a permanent re-appearance. Wide,
flared bottoms on trouser and skirts show exaggerated form whilst, yet again,
emphasising the middle focal point. Gareth Pugh brought the flare into the
coats of his space age collection.
Waist up, there is yet more play on shape with over the top
shoulder and sleeves. Stella McCartney teamed broad shoulders with waist belts
to contrast masculine and feminine. Wide and sharp or rounded and shapely, it
could be time to dust off those shoulder pads again.
Seasonal style sways towards a more demure and covered up
stance. Necklines are high and reserved, structured and statuesque. From long
collars to sweeping cowl necks or simply straight, revealing less is more.
(Ellie Saab - vogue.com - Alexander McQueen)
COLOURS
The colour palette is rich and typically autumnal with dark
brooding purples, reds and browns through to deep teals, blues and greens at
the colder end of the spectrum. These regal colours, in particular purple, are
prompted in part by royal events such as the Diamond Jubilee and the patriotism
felt from the Olympics. Similarly, the wedding of William and Kate last year
saw even greater impact on our industry. Christopher Kane’s runway was engulfed
by purple, right down to the catwalk, whilst Jonathan Saunders’ captured the
key colours in a holographic print.
There were hints of monochrome within several collections
including Mugler, D&G and CSM’s Craig Green. The white and black resonates
ideas of moving from a dark period of troubled recession and war into a
hopefully lighter future.
(Lanvin - vogue.com)
MATERIAL
Luxury materials such as leather, sequins, fur and tulle and
those with metallic finishes are, instead of engrossing the whole outfit, now
accents. Added in panelling or sections to augment affluence to classic yet
basic pieces.
Leather was a key accent to Dior’s collection although it
steers away from the fetishist feel of yester season. Leather belts and
accessories would suffice in incorporating the luxury feel. Similarly with fur,
an outer-garment or winter accessory, a la Alberta Ferreti, is an indulgent
finish.
Traditional autumnal knitwear is head to toe at Mulberry who
also turned chunky knit scarves tucked into a waist belt to create an
interesting way to wear the traditional accessory.
(Christian Dior - vogue.com)
DETAIL, PATTERN &
PRINT
Brocade has been a leading trend in SS12 and transfers into
AW12/13. The raised finish, usually created with silver or gold thread, looks
like luxurious tapestry and adds a twinkle in a subtle, less garish way.
Jewel encrusting is a further trend but, like leather, it’s
toning down from the attention seeking, loud bling to a more subtle sparkle or
oversized collection of juicy jewels. Eye aching gems featuring in the last few
years have been linked to the economic crisis and the desperation to imitate
wealth. The Edwardian shoes at Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton’s iridescent and
encrusted items were nearly trumped by Chanel’s gem covered eyebrows.
(Louis Vuitton - vogue.com)
STYLIST SAYS:
SARA DARLING @disorderfashion
“oooh....reckon i'll be going for checks, lace and feathers! And
some over the elbow leather gloves”
SAFFRON HUNT @saffers
“Mix contemporary patterns with neutral classics”
TIM BITICI @timBitici
“Umm..Peplum, Leather, Bold floral prints, Militant yet
feminine, Futuristic, Metallics, Tailored suiting, lots of fur + slouchy”
OLIVER GLASS @OLIVER_GLASS
“Discover the world. Kaleidoscope. Baroque style. Victorian.
Romance + sex. Long hair. Black is taking vacations #GLASSTRENDS”
